FRIDAY Q&A | YOUR QUESTIONS! BB Glow treatment | Retin-A | Blackheads/Pores | Melasma

Hey everyone, welcome back to my channel if you’re new here. My name is penny I am a certified advanced aesthetician or a master esthetician in Portland Oregon and I’m excited that you’re here with me today because it is time for Friday, QA This is when I take your questions right into the comments I’m trying to take the questions that actually get asked repeatedly so that I hit as many people as I possibly can So let’s get started first One is from Donna Smith. Hi, Donna And the question says I am 69 I have just started seeing white heart bumps under my skin Mainly on my chin and cheeks is this caused by using the wrong products or maybe rosacea I have had to oily skin most of my life now It’s more combo but I still have blackheads on my nose. Any suggestions would be great And then she says some really sweet things about my channel Thank You Donna. That’s so nice Okay, first let’s address the hard white bumps without looking at your skin It’s difficult for me to say definitively what they are but my guess is that they are millia and Just from where you’re telling me they are and the way that you describe to them. I did a whole video on Melia I will link that to either at the end of the video or in the cards here definitely suggest that you watch that video because it goes in-depth as To what millia are and how you can treat them how you can get them treated that kind of thing So I’m gonna reference you there now But other than that the blackheads and the pores, I would suggest adding niacinamide into your skincare routine That’s vitamin b3. It can really help with Reinforcing your barrier it can help with collagen production. It’s just a fantastic Vitamin to introduce into skincare and it is shown to help with pore size I think really the way that it’s helping is by reinforcing that barrier and helping with collagen The pores are not as able to be distended and look larger and as far as blackheads are concerned, my go-to for blackheads is always cell so like acid I Say get some cells to like acid 2% wipes cut them into four squares use one of those four squares every night just on the area where you have congestion and You should start to see overtime some resolution of the blackheads what salicylic acid does is it actually dissing crust or exfoliates the poor lining and That helps to loosen up debris so that when you wash your face with your normal cleansers It will dislodge and the debris will come out. So that’s definitely kind of the first line of attack I think when you are experiencing combo skin and blackheads so hopefully that helps but definitely check out that Millie a video because I think it will be of help to you and if you have more questions about that Definitely leave me any other questions you have about Millia after you’ve watched that video. Yeah next question is actually from ana gonzalez-angulo What do you think about BB glow with Nano now? Thank you for that question Ana Because I get this a lot recently and I will tell you first of all if you don’t know what BB glow is Basically, it is a procedure that you go and you have done by an aesthetician and you get a series of treatments you get you know a double cleanse you get an exfoliation you get a mask you get a light microneedle inception and Then a pigment is put onto your skin that is specifically made It’s mixed with a serum specifically made for nano infusion Which I’ve done lots of videos on Nano and when that Nano is done post micro needling with a pigment It’s supposed to give you kind of a semi-permanent You know pigment into your skin It’s supposed to give you a glow is supposed to kind of even out your skin tone that kind of thing now I am not gonna lie. I’m completely intrigued by this procedure I have ordered a kit so that I can try it on myself I’m not planning to do this in office but I’m intrigued and I’m definitely gonna test it out on myself and see where This is concerning to me as an aesthetician as somebody who studies skin and definitely somebody who studies micro needling is Kind of the long-term effects. Like what is that? Pigment infused into your skin. What is it going to do to your skin long-term? If any of you are estheticians and you perform this procedure, I would love your feedback in the comments or email me I’m genuinely interested in it and I would say that because it’s nano din. I’m Guessing that the amount of pigment that is actually deposited is really in just the stratum corneum that very very outer layer and That’s constantly turning over so it may be okay to have Nano in that very surface layer Again I’m very very cautious because anything that is micro needled in which I know this isn’t but because you do that micro needling pre nano It just worries me that anything with pigment could cause some serious skin conditions And also what happens if that pigment Oxidizes what happens if it changes I don’t know I have so many questions about it myself and I’m definitely planning to do an entire video when I know a little bit more but I’m guessing that some of you out there know more than I do and perform this service and I would love to hear your feedback, so That’s what I think about Nano at this time. Okay. This one is from glory. She says hi penny How do I get rid of brown stains on my forehead and upper lip? I’m 52 and getting these ugly brown patches on my skin anything. I can buy that would work. Love your videos Thank you so much. Okay, so it sounds like melasma usually the staining look on your upper cheek It can be on your upper lip. It sounds like you’ve got them on your forehead that all sounds like classic melasma So I’ve done a lot of videos on melasma as well I’m gonna link one in particular that I think kind of can explain the condition to you a little bit better and how I like to advise treating it there’s lots and lots of factors that figure in to melasma and it’s not all just about The topical stuff that you put on it’s about heat and it’s also about diet Hormones, I mean there’s so many things that go into the last buff, but I can tell you that for me personally I also have melasma and my melasma is completely chronic. It is never going to go away Now had it almost ten years and I’ve gotten it nice and cleared. My skin looks just beautiful and ivory and peachy and Gorgeous, and then I stray a little bit from my skin care. Like I’m sure lots of you do and it starts creeping back So I can definitely empathize with this skin condition I will tell you that my the way that I typically treat treated is that I Will use hydroquinone and I know a lot of people don’t want to use that but I will use hydroquinone in a four percent concentration and that is typically to Inhibit the transfer of pigment. It’s Much more scientific than that But I’m kind of holding off the pigment and then I will use a retinoid and that is to help stimulate new cell healthy cell production and then I’d like to use a surface exfoliator like glycolic lactic that kind of thing to kind of surface exfoliate the existing pigment So I’m holding down new pigment I’m producing new good cells and I’m exfoliating the surface and then the most crucial thing for me is to wear sun protection because it can definitely flare in the Sun and also I try not to get too hot because I flare melasma With heat so you want to try and keep your exposure to heat and getting too hot to a minimum I hope that that helps I definitely would refer you to my melasma videos Because they go much further in depth and maybe can answer some of your questions a little bit better But that’s my general like a quick nutshell Overview of how I treat my Lassa the next question is from Carrie bishop and she asks Would you tell me what size should I use on my lips to plump them up micro-needling? I am 62 and they are getting thinner also, how often so glad I found your channel. I’m a subscriber Thank you. Welcome. I’m glad that you’re here. And that was very nice of you to say now I will tell you with micro needling I do not microneedle. My actual lips I do microneedle all around my lips and if I get a little bit on my lips I’m not it’s not like I have to stay off of them, but I don’t actually just needle over my lips with micro needles However, you can definitely nano needle your lips, which is super superficial but what I love about it is you can use a nano pin and higher ilanic acid and you could do it every Single day if you want to and get a little bit of that higher onic acid kind of infused into your lips Which will help to plump them help to hydrate them and definitely gives them kind of more of a fuller appearance I love narrowing higher ilanic acid into the lips. I think it’s fantastic but as far as Collagen induction which will help just to kind of add some structure to kind of this outer border of your lips You can definitely need all I need about a point five millimeter Around the border of my lips and I do that every four weeks so it’s the same schedule as micro needling for collagen on my face and It definitely can help the outer part of your lip with lip lines. It can help with just kind of keeping your lips healthy around your lips which can contribute quite a bit to keeping them looking full or Keep them from getting too thin because that definitely happens as we age. I will link the Videos that I’ve done on micro needling at the end of this video. I’ll just link my micro needling playlist That’s all of those things apply to needling around your lips In collagen induction, so definitely check that out. Ok. The next question is from Donna dougherty Hi, Donna, and her question is what is the best retin-a product? I am 57 and my cheeks are starting to slightly crepe Okay, so that is not a straightforward There’s not a straightforward answer to that. First of all retin-a is retinoic acid It is the gold standard of vitamin A But under the vitamin A umbrella, there’s all kinds of levels if you will of Effectiveness of concentration of You know strength that kind of thing is so way on down you’ve got retinol which is about 20% as strong as retin-a for example, and Retinol is still a vitamin a derivative the difference Is that when you put retinol on your skin, it requires an enzyme in your skin to convert it twice to become Retinoic acid which is retin-a, then there is retinaldehyde Retinaldehyde is one step down from retin-a and still requires an enzyme to convert it one time in to retinoic acid so because of those conversion requirements Sometimes people can experience more irritation with retinol So it kind of just depends on your skin A lot of times people really like to go with retinol to start They will use it for a number of months and it will start to Help your skin build a tolerance to the vitamin because it’s definitely strong and there’s definitely some kind of irritant side effects so a lot of people love to start with Retinol retinol dehyde it seems to be a little bit less irritating and I think it’s because it only requires that one Conversion in your skin, so there’s just less of a chance for irritation But it also is more gentle more tolerable than actual Retin A which is retinoic acid So I think that a great place to start without looking at your skin is often a retinaldehyde So you can find that in the ingredient deck either as retinaldehyde or you can find it as retinol with an A L so when you see that that is retinaldehyde and just know that it is one step down from Retin-a. It requires one conversion to become retin-a. It should be less irritating and it is perfect to use Starting out about every three days So no longer than 72 hours between applications at night And as you gain tolerance you start to do every other night Until you can finally work your way up If you ever can – every single night once you feel like you have no irritation whatsoever. You can consider graduating to Retin-a and I like for people when they graduate to move on to retin-a 0.05. I think that’s the perfect next step. I’ve never graduated to one in retina I just my skin cannot tolerate it no matter how tolerant how much I’ve used retin-a So I really like 0.05 and it is definitely studies have shown that at that level you do get great collagen stimulation so that’s kind of the Order business that I would do So if you are somebody out there who has never used a retinoid of any kind of vitamin A then retinaldehyde is a great place to start and Start slow your frequency and the amount that you put on your face is going to determine your irritation factor so start slow start with a little and Graduate that is definitely my recommendations for retin-a. Okay, you guys those are the questions for today. I am serious I have a huge list. I wish I could just show you the screenshots I have Stored in my photos with little X’s so that I can get to every single question. I Hope you guys are having a fantastic week. I hope you enjoyed this I hope that it was helpful in some way and I will definitely talk to you guys again very very soon


  1. Hi Penny thank you so much for answering my question…. can u believe I was so excited when u mentioned my name. I felt special and appreciate that you sincerely care and want to help your viewers. I truly love your videos and information that you provide for us. I share your videos with family and friends and I always tell people to check with you before they tried new products. Thank you again.

  2. Hi Penny,
    I agree, Salicylic Acid is very helpful for treating blackheads.
    The Ordinary's salicylic acid serum has been a game changer for me. It treated blackheads on my nose that were very stubborn. It's very reasonably priced and I use this 2 – 3x/week as a spot treatment. Just 2 drops on my nose before I go to bed. Really opens up pores. I always enjoy your videos. Such great information.
    💕 Alli

  3. One of the most open and knowledgable Esthys out there!! I’m very curious about B.B. also. I, sure you’ve seen Dr Lance’s article which makes me nervous to try. I wonder if it’s clogging for pores…let me know

  4. I was curious as to your thoughts on the BB Glow trend! I was going to ask you but then that questionable DIY channel did it and I figured you’d have plenty of people asking you about it. Her DIY lip filler video was taken down (much to my relief) but she’s done the Plasma Pen and Hyaluron Pen on herself since and recently did the BB Glow. I have to say, I also have some concerns about BB Glow in general. What are your thoughts on people doing it on themselves at home in particular? I was very concerned to hear that DIY channel telling her subscribers not to nano it in but rather to microneedle it at .25mm in because you want to get it deep enough (her words). I just think that people may purchase the pigment from questionable companies that aren’t selling products safe for transdermal injection and you’re going to end up with people getting a foreign body granuloma reaction especially if they’re not nano needling it.

  5. I’ve noticed that often what people see on the nose is just the sebum and accumulated skin cells oxidizing. You can use a good cleansing oil as well as BHA but all you can really do is keep them as clear as possible, not remove entirely. I’ve heard some say blackheads and sebaceous filaments are the same while others say SFs are different.

    The lovely Kind of Stephen has a post on it of course:

    And there are some random references:

    What are your thoughts on blackheads vs SFs?

  6. Hi Penny, can I use my Microcurrent Device and Micro derma Rolling at the same time or should I do the Myolift first then my microneedling. How do I incorporate it into my skincare?

  7. First of all, you look so sophisticated with your bright lipstick and nails. Love it. That BB glow kinda sounds like a superficial tattoo that would slough off (but not evenly). The nanoing of the lips sounds great, but those cartridges are too pricey for me to use one a day. Thank you for the great explanation of how you treat melasma.I know it plagues many women and it is sad that there isn't a laser that would eliminate it.
    Story time: My grandparents were in line to pay for their meal at Kim's Chinese restaurant. A lady ahead of them was reaching for her wallet in her purse and pulled her hand out with Kim's Pink Sauce all over it! She had swiped a bottle and it had spilled out into her purse. I sure miss Mar Far Chicken and Batter Fried Prawns with Pink Sauce. And, Bbq Pork with sesame seeds and hot mustard.
    Have a great weekend!

  8. Thanks for the excellent video. Your explanations are so clear. I do hope you will be able to address the issue of using peptides at the same time as ascorbic acid and other direct acids. So many on YouTube are using their ascorbic acid serum at the same time as Matryxl and other peptides serums so I am sure this would be of great interest. Thanks!

  9. Thank you for this question & answer video. Hi Penny. I've had a irritation on my face for 4 months now seeing a dermatologist ..flushing , redness .little pimple like bumps all over, flare-ups constantly and on my neck too. I was just prescribed metron cream and I'm wondering do you feel that's a good idea, at this point ? I'm too afraid to put anything on it. Everything makes it so dry/ they haven't gave me anything before this that helped. ..hasn't been that good of a summer. I'm staying out of sun and feel very embarrassed , thanks for your help , I appreciate it.

  10. Hello I saw on amazon that there is a company called JJ labs skin solution and Tru Skin 20% vitamin c serum. Which product do you suggest for black dark skin women with dark spots/hyperpigmentation on there face out of these two companies UNLESS you suggested something else or different brand for my skin type?

    JJ labs have so many skin lighting serum that I don't have a clue on which to buy can you suggest which will benefit my skin lightening/whitening needs?

    I also have fine lines on my forehead. I do not have dark circle under my eyes but I can see I no longer look young. What can I do to bring back my youth in my skin without going to the doctor to get fillers under my eyes and filling in fine lines?

    I also have dark areas on my body (inner thigh and knees etc.) which skin whitening cream will brightening my body to have a even skin completion? HELP PLEASE!! thank you advance

  11. I love listening to your videos and your skin looks fab. Please read the paper Dr Lance Setterfield has written on BB Glow before you start to BB Glow into your skin. It may "just" be the stratum corneum but there's too many unknowns with this treatment. After reading the paper I've referred to I won't ever be doing this treatment. I wonder why would you consider doing this if you're already concerned about future issues due to putting a cocktail of chemicals into the skin.

  12. So much good advice sweet girl!! Love the idea of nano needling with HA on the lips! It sounds like a mini injection! What a great explanation of the vitamin A options!!! Excellent! I probably should never have gone past the .05. And you helped me solidify in my mind what a retinaldehyde is vs a retinol. Love love love this series! So good! Love you love chop!😘😘😘

  13. Love osmosis retinalyde Or their vitamin A . I use it every night. Its awesome! No irritation and safer ingredients

  14. Hello again last question for the day. What are your thoughts on Tru Skin Company which has a Tea Tree clear skin super serum and the ingrediants are listed on the front of the bottle 20% vitamin C, 3.5% Niacinamide, 2.5% Retinol, 5.0% Hyaluronic Acid, 2.5% Salicylic

  15. Love your channel & expertise! What do you recommend for lip care? Mine always feel dry and flaky especially in the wintertime. I turn 40 next month and am getting the vertical lines around my lips as I age (not a smoker). Thank you!

  16. Thanks so much for answering my questions! I have been using niacinamide for several months and really feel it has improved my skin, will check out your other 2 suggestions! 👍👏💖💄

  17. 💞💞💞Your videos are just a treasure trove of information! Love, love, love learning from you. Looking super glowy and gorgeous!💞💞💞

  18. Love your videos!!! These Q&A videos are wonderful! Can you please do a video about skincare and the gym? I wonder if I should do my full skincare routine, including applying sunscreen before the gym or if I should skip all that and do it immediately after my workout! Would love to hear your tips!!!

  19. Hi Penny. I was getting ready to research the Retinol, etc.. Didn't have to. Good timing. Which lipstick are you wearing in this video? Time to splurge, again. lol.

  20. Hi Penny! I’m a fairly new subscriber (I came from Mrs M) channel. You’re videos are so informative. I have a question. I’m 52 and have medium olive skin with more neutral tones. I also have age spots and sun spots. My question is is how do I lighten these? When I use vitamin c or retinol products it makes them darker which is defeating the purpose of lightening them. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!

  21. Mature, dry skin: Do u have a video addressing most effective way to wear enough sunscreen, keep your skin moisturized, AND wear a fdn that gives medium coverage? By the time I layer all the skincare and sunscreen, my poor skin says "Get me outta here!" after a few hours. Add summer sweat if you're up to the challenge, dear Penny.

  22. I can get my melasma faded and as soon as summer really hits, it comes back full course! Thank you for the info💕💕

  23. Great info. BB Glow looks very interesting but not much independent research around. Some of the products come out of Russia or have human EGFs so a few red flags. Look forward to your final conclusions re effectiveness and safety. Thanks

  24. Hi hun. Thank you for your great videos. What kind of hyaluronic acid do you apply around your lips. Thanks

  25. Hello penny,I have always had red cheeks,I did visit a dermatologist and he said he didn't think I had rosacea,I also had a spider vein removed from under my eyes (perhaps it has been blanched a little),and the problem i have now is the contrast between my white under eyes and my red cheeks,kind of like reverse raccoon eyes.It makes me feel very self conscious as I look unwell especially without foundation.I have tried IPL, Laser genisis and the candular laser for flushing,none of these have been helpful..The dermatologist i went to gave me a script for beta blockers,but i was too scared to take them and explained this to him,he said i could try ipl but it would cost me more and probably wouldn't give me the same results as a beta blocker..I was so desperate i wanted to get red tattooed under my eyes so it would blend in with my red cheeks, but I spoke to a professional and its not an option for me….I have also tried to fake tan the area under my eyes,but it ends up turning a greeny colour….Any help or advice would be appreciated.

  26. Questions for next weeks Q and A ( Btw I love you )

    1. On your channel you have discussed multiple tools that are awesome . As I acquire more of your suggested tools I am curious how to schedule their uses . I understand micro needling once a month , Cosmetic needling weekly and nano in between .. now I have that awesome spatula . In your video you said a few times a week . Then there’s the micro current tools like Nuface / Myolift . Can u give some tips on how to balance all these awesome tools ? I currently feel like I need a calendar to schedule when to do everything and not cause unnecessary irritation.

    2. Would love u to continue the series on pro tools at home so we can do our facial together ( from this video

    3. For those of us that don’t get facials often and also have some fun tools at home , can you suggest what kinds of facials you would recommend that are best in office ?

    4. Would still love the video on nano and retinal !

    5. What are your favorite treatments to preform in office?

    6. What are some areas of concern that really only get results from Botox and filler versus needling / products and tools ?

  27. Hello beautiful. Would it be possible for you to try the BB Glow treatment on a different area other than your face? I would hate to see you mess up your beautiful skin. I've been derma rolling my lips for about 4 years, and am so happy with the results. I really appreciate the time you take to answer the questions. Blessings, and love, Penny..MaryEllen

  28. Thanks Penny for all this great information….I’m also wondering about this new BB Glow treatment….I’m from Canada and am going to try and find more info on this. Can’t wait to hear what you find out😃. Have a good weekend

  29. My dermatologist just prescribed me Retin-A… .4. She says it will help with my melasma and hormonal acne.
    Could I use hydroquinone in conjunction with Retin-A?

  30. I love the Q & A format…there is just so much information explained so well…I just hang onto every word. I need to check out the nano needling. BTW…never got up to 0.05 RA. Using Curology and i now have a 0.035, and it's fine. Take care!

  31. Hi Penny! I'm loving these Friday Q&A's! I find I'm hanging on your every word! I'm so glad to hear it's not just me who slips a bit on my skincare! I feel so guilty about it sometimes! I need to sit down and just go through your playlists. I know you have a wealth of information there and I don't want to ask a question you've already covered! Thanks for all you do; you are a fantastic resource. Have a terrific week.🌻

  32. Hi Penny, love you videos!! I’m an esthetician and I have trained for and use BB Glow. At first, I also had all the same concerns as everyone else. Now that I have performed it several times on myself and volunteers it really is a booster to microneedling. I’m still logging the results so far. The pigments sounds scary but it’s really not once you understand the process. First of all the pigments are very diluted with serum, meaning it’s not the same intense pigments of Permenant makeup. 2nd the needling is done with a depth of under 0.2, I personally use 0.1-0.15, possibly 0.2 for the lower cheeks only. The idea is NOT to have bleeding. Since pigments are only in the stratum corneum which is the top most layer of the skin, eventually the skin will shed off the layer. BBGlow is cumulative, the more you do it the more glowing you will be 😁. Hope that helped a little bit 😁. Any questions I’m on IS @ivytran_nj

  33. Would be interested to know if the bb glow darkens hyperpigmentation as it is staining the rest of the skin. I can’t use self tanners for this reason, even tho my hyperpigmentation isn’t that bad. But I’m old (62) So age spots look terrible with self tanner!

  34. hi Penny! Your lipstick is to die for.

    In addition to cleansers, moisturizers, acids, and moisture essence products you have recommended (THANK YOU), I have purchased several serums and I'd love to get clarification on when/in what order I should apply EGF, retinol, and copper peptides within a daily skincare routine.

    I have all of these serums and am not sure if I need to worry about time of day, method of application, or if I should/shouldn't layer them with anything. I use your skincare blueprint as a guide (cleanse, AHA, moisture essence, [AM/PM serums], moisturize). But for some reason I'm nervous about applying serums in the wrong order!!! Any insight?

  35. You're amazing and so knowledgable. You explain things in a way that the average person can understand without making it complicated or intimdating. Thank you and looking forward to more videos Penny 😀

  36. Hi Penny, I have extremely dry skin to where it feels tight. I'm trying different moisturizers….Neutrogena Hydro Boost, Olay for sensitive skin with SPF, Eucerin with SPF. After putting these products on, my face still feels tight and tacky. Can you recommend what I should use? Thanks!

  37. You do such a great job with this series Penny and I enjoy it very much. I always learn SOMETHING new 😀 xoxo Mary

  38. Can’t thank you enough for the information on introducing this Retin a step down into my skin care regimen! Again this program is an excellent source to begin my journey on great skin health!! Thanks again and I love the lipstick shade you are wearing!

  39. Hi Penny. Your videos are wonderful, very informative, you are my go to girl!! Thank you so much! Retin A….I am 47 and need to do some major repair from sun damage in my younger years. I currently am using Skin Ceuticals Retinol 1% but after watching this, I’m thinking a prescription from my dermatologists would be better. I have a .025% of Tretinoin but I don’t think that’s strong enough. What do you recommend?

  40. Hi!
    I have been enjoying your videos, thanks!
    What do you think about the Dermapeel Photons Facial Skin Care Machine LED Beauty Mask Therapy? I would really appreciate your opinion before I purchase it! Thx

  41. Hello again! Is it okay to do micro needling over Botox? For deep elevens, what's the best way to treat static wrinkles after the area has been frozen with Botox?

  42. very interested in seeing a tutorial on mirco needling hands. Wonder if you could micro needle arms as well and wondering which needle to use. Love all your videos. Judy

  43. Hi, I did watch a YouTube where a you gurl had bb glow done by aesthetion and YES…the pigment
    only stays in for a while( not that long) and fades away because of cell turn over.
    I think people like it because they Then Feel, Like they don't Have to
    Wear makeup. (I, Would not do this procedure). It Did look nice.
    Thank You. 💗😎🌈

  44. Penn, do you have a video on how to start Retin A into our routine? I am using all of the other acids without any problems ( for a year now) and I want to add Retin A. ( I have the product, I got it in Mexico)

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